Kikunoi Akasaka **, Tokyo (Dec’10)
Kikunoi Akasaka ** – “SFREELIFE’S MOST FAVORITE RESTAURANT IN THE WORLD”
2nd visit – December 2010 (stay tuned for upcoming reviews of subsequent meals in November 2011, February 2012).
At press time (March 2012), our tasters have visited Kikunoi 6 times , both at Kyoto Honten and most often at Tokyo branch, and each time, it was unanimous that Kikunoi was ‘one of, if not THE best meal of the trip’ – and our trips do usually consist of over 20-30 combined Michelin stars. So that’s the biggest compliments we could give to Kikunoi.
See a previous visit in SUMMER 2009 ( season of Pike Conger HAMO and sweetfish AYU) :
http://sfreelife.com/2010/12/29/akasaka-kikunoi-june-2009/
Awarded 2 micheln stars which , in our opinion, is the biggest injustice we’ve come to disagree with Michelin.
In a previous post, we’ve touched on how Chef Murata explained to us that Michelin would just not bestow 3 stars on a ‘branch’ with the same name and concept as the Main restaurant within the same country (the kyoto Honten has 3). We aren’t sure if this is really the case but that might just be the only explanation possible to deprive this restaurant of its 3 stars.(if it were up to us, it would be 5 stars)
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- Yuba Chawan-mushi
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- HASSUN – (the appetizer)- a very elaborate presentation of various seasonal produce. The HASSUN always sets the theme of the season and at Kikunoi it’s always interesting to hear what the chef’s trying to convey with the hassun (there’s always a story behind the course)
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- Mukozuke (sashimi course) – in winter, this couldn’t be anything but the infamous FUGU (puffer fish) dipped in house-special PONZU (vinegar). The quality of FUGU is judged not only by the quality of the fish (tiger breed of Fugu) but more essentially the slicing technique which produces the ‘toughest’ texture. For those unfamiliar with FUGU, the allure of it all lies in the ‘chewiness’ (or as Japanese calls it ‘kori kori’) texture.
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- BURI (yellowtail) sashimi with grated radish. A supremely fatty portion (single slice) of the WINTER specialty; the fat of the fish amalgamates magically with the puffy and sweet radish.
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- Red WAKASA Tilefish steamed with KABURA Turnip. While the fish itself has excellent texture, the highlght of this dish has to be this Kyoto Turnip – KABURA. (see next picture) – another amazing course
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- KYOTO Kabura Turnip. Never in our lives have we seen such a huge turnip. Available only in winter, the sweetness of this turnip is just unbelievable.
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- Kabura Turnip – almost too heavy to carry
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- Something’s brewing in the open kitchen …..
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- Always a good sign …. our favorite SUDACHI lemon. I swear you can cook anything in anyway and add sudachi and it’ll taste good! The smell of sudachi is one of the most alluring fragrance in the world..
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- ZUWAI-KANI. Winter Kyoto Crab … a rare but staple ingredient at most high-end Kaiseki during Winter. Again, forget about any crab you’ve eaten, Zuwai Kani is the KING of all CRABS!
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- Delicately grilled table-side.
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- Crab roe – unbelievably sweet and aromatic.
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- Special-made stove
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- The elaborateness at Kikunoi means the chef grilling each part of the crab piece-by-piece , served at your own pace to ensure the ‘fresh from the grill’ experience.
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- No part of the crab was left untouched… For more than 30minutes, we were served each and every part of the precious crab table-side. THis constitutes only just ONE course of the meal – this comprehensiveness and hence the value (23,000 yen/pax) you get at Kikunoi makes every other Kaiseki restaurants (around 30,000 Yen /pax) look ludicrous. Compare this with the famous ‘crab-kaiseki’ at Yukimura (3 michelin stars) , we were served just 1 other appetizer, soup and rice in addition to the crab itself for 30% higher price.
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- Candied Walnut
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- Pear and Wasabi sorbet. A simple palate-cleanser … The use of wasabi here isn’t for ‘showcase’ but was perfect in cleansing the umami of the crab courses. Amazing.
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- Oyster with Tosa Yuzu jelly served in Yuzu-whole. This course was heaven-sent – after the heaviness of the grilled crab with the umami-rich taste and heat from the table–side grill, this cold and refreshing course (what can be more refreshing than Yuzu!) perfectly demonstrates the concept of Kaiseki which is almost orchestra-like in the way each course progresses and complements each other.
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- Sweet and juicy Oyster
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- Fuka-hire (shark fin) & Suppon (turtle) Soup served in claypot. (again, check out the size of the individual serving – just incredible value) 2 of the most highly-prized delicacies combining to produce one of the most delicious soup we’ve ever tasted. Suppon is known for its ‘heatiness’ which is ideal during winter, while the shark fin adds incredible texture on top of the Goma Tofu (sesame tofu not just ordinary tofu) SFREELIFE – “TO DIE FOR” AWARD!
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- IKURA RICE – WOW!! Instant SFREELIFE – TO DIE FOR AWARD!! Looks great , taste even better! A Kikunoi signature rice dish, the Takikomi-Gohan (rice served with topping in a earthen pot) combines the perfect texture of Japanese rice (sticky) with umami burst from a bed of Ikura.
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- Ikura EXCESS!
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- Each and every ikura was busted to inject the umami-rich flavor into the rice, topped with Nori seaweed.
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- Typical presentation of the final rice-tsukemono (pickle) -soup course.
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- SFREELIFE – “TO DIE FOR” AWARD! Even with the tremendous amount of food we were served, the 4 of us averaged 4-6 servings of this rice course! We could eat this every day! The best rice-dish we’ve ever had in our lives!
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- Yuzu Sorbet with Pessimon (seasonal fruit) and Black tea Jelly. Looks simple (as most kaiseki desserts are) but very delicious. The harmony of the taste and texture of each ingredient in each course was so consistently-perfect.
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- Alternative Dessert – Ginger Ice Cream with Grilled Apple. Again, the ginger ice cream is served as a ‘warmer’ during the Winter months.
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- The Master – third-generation owner-chef Yoshihiro Murata. Murata-san oversees three restaurants, 2 in Kyoto 1 in Tokyo, and hence we were very lucky to have met him on the night he was in Tokyo.
In short, ONE OF THE BEST MEALS OF OUR LIVES. (so much so that the following December, we returned and asked to be served the same courses once more just for pure indulgence purposes.) We truly recommend anyone to visit Kikunoi (kyoto or tokyo) and especially during December where the seasonal products are at their extravagant best (zuwai-kani , kabura turnip , suppon turtle , fatty fishes , fugu etc).
One word of caution : if you intend to begin your Kaiseki introduction at Kikunoi , especially during December, you might face the same bittersweet frustration we’ve come to feel : you could go on to eat the whole of Tokyo and Kyoto , scouting the 15++ or so 3-Michelin Kaiseki places, and end up realizing that they do not come close to what you’ve just had!
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[...] and wow-factor, although admittedly that could be down to the time of year we visited – their winter kaiseki looks pretty [...]
Looks wonderful. I didn’t like (or rather ” didn’t understand” as it was my first kaiseki experience) Kikunoi in Kyoto so much. But here the food looks more approachable and truly delicious.
The very first time i had the JUNE menu and it was slightly disappointing too .. i think the ‘seasonal’ nature of Kaiseki means that you really can have very different experiences depending on the season. But DECEMBER menu is really amazing .. so was the November and February menu i had.
Dear sfreelife,
i was wondering if the reference to the 23,000yen you made in this post was indeed the cost of the meal? thanks!
travelling to japan this may (after a hiatus of 10 years!), and im using your site quite heavily for a reference list of places to eat at – Kondo, Kanesaka and Saito are already on my list!
Yes, PER PERSON. That’s the standard, you can ask for ‘more’.
Thanks, im glad to be of any help. I’ll be visiting again early April.
If i may … i wouldn’t advise Kanesaka simply because it’s very similar albeit inferior to Saito. Like i mentioned in my blog, the fish at both places are ‘exactly the same’. But of course its a matter of preference. I really recommend ARAKI , especially because he’s CLOSING his restaurant soon so this might be your only chance. It’s definitely worth it. Yoshitake is another good one, great appetizers on top of great sushi make a ‘complete’ experience.
Sawada is my favorite but the vinegar-charged rice might not suit everyone’s taste.
I really suggest you try either (or both if you could) KODAMA or KADOWAKI. It’s slightly fusion but still using all the seasonal Japanese ingredients. I’ve been to Kodama 3 times, and there isn’t even ONE DISH i didn’t like.
Anywhere outside tokyo?
hey sfreelife (ok you’ve gotta give me your name soon, haha)
i’m in Singapore and I have been resisting temptation (quite well so far, if i may add) to pay a visit to Shinji by Kanesaka – and I think that’s only because i’ve told myself that i’ll be visiting the original outlet at Sushi Kanesaka this may (hence Kanesaka).
i’ve called up Sushi Saito, and apparently they only start taking reservations for May on 2nd April onwards. this is a contrast to what i’ve heard on blogs (“have to book months in advance” and the like…) could you advice on this?
if i cannot get a place at Saito i am looking at Sawada (and maybe the other names which you’ve thrown up in your reply!)
im at christophercheang@gmail.com if you wanna exchange contact
cheers,
chris-
Hey, my name is Lit. Im in Bangkok but I used to live 10 years in Singapore!
Shinji .. is as good as Kanesaka (huge compliments). So go elsewhere if in Tokyo.
I think the way it works is that most of the seats are taken up by ‘returning customers’ who book immediately after their meals, for months ahead. It’s the usual practice. So be prepared to be told ‘full’ even if you call on 2nd April!
I really recommend ARAKI – it’s no less popular/famous than all these names. In fact, it could be the biggest name in Tokyo except that foreigners just got to know it after they moved to GInza and got 3 michelin stars 2 years ago. VIPs and gourmets have been regulars at his previous place for years even though it’s remotely outside tokyo. Tetsuya Wakuda invited him as a partner to open in Singapore but i think they finalized on LONDON. So he’s moving there and closing this place.
Dear Sfreelife,
I might go in May as well for about a week.
which french/european would you suggest to take a break from Japanese meals but also have nice Japanese influence?
I see Takazawa is on your top 25, how about LES CREATIONS DE NARISAWA?
If Kaiseki I am thinking Kikunoi and Kadowaki, you recommend Kodama over either?
hey Jimi…
That’s a tough one. Narisawa offers a greater ‘spectacle’ in a more refined atmosphere, im think you’ll be WOWED more at Narisawa. Your camera will be busy. But the taste, for my palate, is slightly bland.
Takazawa is very, very creative too and the taste , im my opinion, is better.
My ranking admittedly takes into account the sum of multiple visits. I’ve been to both twice and if I were to return for third time, it will definitely be Takazawa. But for first-timers, Narisawa is probably a better place to ‘start’.
Kikunoi is a MUST. You can’t go wrong with either Kadowaki or Kodama. It’s a good balance because Kikunoi offers traditional kaiseki (not strictly) while Kadowaki/Kodama is fusion. Kadowaki’s foie gras SOBA and TRUFFLE rice are worth your tickets to Tokyo alone!
When are you going? The month of June is my least favorite season of ingredients in Japan.
I think I will go for the 2 european and 2 kaiseki, and 2-3 sushi
probably something like the second week of May, +- few days
for sushi, only Jiro Ginza require Japanese Speaking?
since I think my dad forgot how to speak Japanese,
I have no Japanese friends that I am close enough to invite, or if my parents invite their friend 30mins dinner seem inappropriate…..
Sawada is similar sourness, old school? or the Ropongi branch offers closer enough Jironess? what about Araki? what is their style? Will try to get Saito too!
peyton and moss?
most of them cant speak English but JIRO will require a Jap speaking person to call for reservation. Otherwise they’ll ask you to go the Roppongi branch. But arriving at the restaurant its not a problem if you dont speak Jap.
Sawada is great.. old school and great spectacle. He pulls out all the tricks .. the most masterful display of sushi over 2 hours (make it more worthwhile!)
ARAKI is my biggest recommendation because he’s closing for good! (moving to London from what i learned)
SAITO of course is the best , all things considered (cheapest too). BUT only if you can get a reservation. prob the hardest in the world i’ve encountered!
Screw peyton.. prob only using Miami as leverage… but then i shouldn’t be surprised
kikunoi lunch and dinner menu big difference?
the difference is you can order the lower-priced lunch-set. But the ‘top menu’ is on offer both lunch and dinner.
the lunch kaiseki, is at 10k yen? the dinner is 15k-21k? are these same ‘top menu’?
surely not. but you can ask to have the 21k menu during lunch ..
i doubt you can expect anything too spectacular with the 10k menu
Dear Lit,
Thanks for sharing all your food reviews!
I am going to Tokyo in feb and have managed to get 4 reservations – 1) sushi sawada (lunch only) 2) jiro roppongi 3) Kikunoi Akasaka 4) sushi yoshitake
Due to my flight schedule, however I have to drop one of them; which one will you recommend between Kikunoi and yoshitake? I just looked up on Kikunoi website and their winter menu doesn’t look as fabulous as what you had here.
Many thanks in advance for your recommendation!
hi Andy,
thanks for your comments (fellow LSE alumni?).
It depends really, because Kikunoi is Kaiseki while Yoshitake is pure sushi. since you already have 2 sushi, i guess it would be better to go with Kikunoi?
Kikunoi’s menu online is not reliable, they update once a quarter, while in fact their menu changes beginning of each month.
You can email them to ask to see the menu in advance although it ‘can’change on the day, of course.
Hi Lit,
Yes I graduated from LSE in 2010!
Thanks for your recommendation – I have decided to change my schedule around and go for all 4!
Have requested for the Kikunoi menu and asked for the Zuwai Kani and Fugu dishes. Really excited about it.
On a side note, have you tried Osaka’s endo-sushi? http://supermerlion.com/endo-sushi/
Wondering how it compare against Daiwa or Sushi Dai.. I’ll be heading to both markets in Osaka and Tokyo to try them out.